GARDA TRENTINO, A VERTICAL PARADISE OF ROCK AND CRAGS

Garda Trentino is an enormous open air gym and a magnet for anyone who is into outdoor sports. And this includes sports climbing where it has earned itself the name on the international scene of “Home of Climbing”. With its beautiful landscape, Garda Trentino offers tourists an endless array of opportunities to put themselves to the test moving vertically from the valley floor to higher altitudes where the views are even more breathtaking. Climbing is one of the main focuses of Outdoor Park Garda Trentino, the project which aims to provide ever more comprehensive services for sports enthusiasts in the area. 

There is a long tradition of climbing in Garda Trentino. It is on this rock that seasoned athletes such as Manolo, Bassi and Mariacher and new stars like Stefano Ghisolfi have made and continue to write climbing history. And those who practice this discipline which unites strength, dexterity, coordination and balance know it well. Here they are in the perfect place to indulge their passion. And then there is Adam Ondra. the phenomenal talent from the Czech Republic, capable of the most extraordinary feats, who merits a place apart among all the champions. Ondra, who has become a living legend for climbing enthusiasts of all ages, and for some time now has been a prestigious ambassador for Garda Trentino: this year too, this utterly singular climber will be a valuable testimonial for the area and the sport in promotional events as the focus of live events here with a view to spreading the word about the appeal of climbing (a new Olympic sport from Tokyo 2020) in Garda Trentino.

 THE ROCK AMBASSADOR: ADAM ONDRA

Adam Ondra, the world-renowned young talent in sports climbing never ceases to amaze and continues to draw ever more intriguing lines of ascent at the limit of what is humanly possible.  He is the first climber in history to free a route graded 9c (in the Norwegian cave Flatanger), completing his “Project Hard” which had kept him busy for 5 years. But he has also performed spectacularly in Garda Trentino, managing to free the first 9b in the area, the Queen Line in Laghel. Ondra is also the star climber in Rock Master in Arco and together with Stefano Ghisolfi (who decided to move to Arco in order to be able to practice all year round) has launched the “Champions Challenge”, an event for climbing enthusiasts sharing the secrets of this rising sport in the cradle of climbing, live. Even though he is still so young, Ondra has some stunning achievements to his name: twice World champion in lead climbing and once in Bouldering. But he retains such a simplicity, and is so likeable and such a good communicator that these qualities make as much of an impression on the public as his technical skills. And he has always loved the crags and lifestyle which characterise this resort: “Climbing in Trentino in the summer is a marvellous combination of the spirit of summer and holidays, it almost feels like the sea on the lake, climbing in the shade between marvellous mountains and a dive in crystal waters. When I get up early, I love to go crag climbing in Garda Trentino. In particular, Terra Promessa is my favourite, in the morning, because of the shade. And in the afternoon … I just kick back and relax.” 

A NATURAL GYM OPEN ALL YEAR ROUND

The entire Garda Trentino area offers rock climbing arenas which are among the best known and loved in the world. The quality of the rock, the number of cliffs at all levels of difficulty and the mild climate make it possible for anyone to climb here year round. Over the years Arco has become an international venue for the sport. Garda Trentino has routes for climbers of all kinds, from experienced athletes to families with children, so they can all try the singular experience of climbing, choosing from nearly 600 bolted routes (subject to regular checks and maintenance) commissioned by the municipal authorities of Arco and Nago-Torbole. All the routes offer a high standard of safety, to go with the prudence and rules of behaviour which have always been a prerequisite of sports climbing on natural terrain, a terrain which is also accessible to those who have got started in this sport on artificial walls and want to discover the appeal and excitement of climbing in natural surroundings.

And for those who can't go without climbing even when the weather turns bad, Garda Trentino offers all climbers the thrill of indoor bouldering. The gym is called Boulder City Asd and can be found at 74 Viale Daino in Dro

UNLIMITED OFFER (WITH ROOM FOR THE DISABLED TOO)

There are 16 crags in all in the Outdoor Park Garda Trentino-Ledro. The best known are Belvedere (Nago, 54 routes from 3c to 7b+), Calvario (Arco, 22 routes from 5b to 8a), Placche di Baone, natural crag for paraclimbing (Arco, 11 routes from 4b to 6a, the first in the world without barriers for the diversely able, fitted with a tactlile map which allows the blind to understand the progression of 6 dedicated routes, the number and type of safety rings, as well as the grade of difficulty), Policromuro (Arco, 97 routes from 5a to 8a), Muro dell’Asino (Arco, 45 routes from 4a to 6b), Corno di Bo’ (Torbole sul Garda, 7 routes from 4b al 5c) e Spiaggia delle Lucertole (Torbole sul Garda, 19 routes from 6a+ al 7c), Massi di Prabi (Arco, 52 routes from 3c al 7a, Boulder), Abissi (Arco, 40 routes from 6b to 8a+), Massi di Gaggiolo (Dro, 24 routes from 3c to 6c, Boulder), Segrom (Nago, 125 routes from 5a to 8a), Passo San Giovanni (Nago, 36 routes from 4c to 8a) and Piazzole (Arco, 21 routes from 5c to 7b). In addition, in Valle del Sarca, there are another 30 crags with over 2000 bolted routes for sports climbing where new routes are continually being opened (bolted by private parties and not guaranteed for safety)

PERFECT TRAINING GROUND FOR KIDS: FAMILY CRAGS

The park with the 16 bolted climbing areas also include four Family crags, easy to access and with a wide flat area at the base, all the routes names after famous fairytales or children's movies, the ideal outdoor activity area for families and kids. The most recent addition is called Massi delle Traole (Nago, sectors A-B 23 routes from 6a to 8c+, sectors C-H 33 routes from 3a to 5c). The boulders have fun names like Star Wars, Pinocchio and Peter Pan. Each of the routes are then named after the most famous characters in each story. The other crags are Family San Martino (Arco, Junior-Hogwarts 8 routes from 4c to 6b, Kids-Ice Age 9 routes from 3a to 4b) and Doss Pelà (Drena, 11 routes from 3a al 4c, named after the main characters of the unforgettable Disney cartoon “The Aristocats”). The latest additions is  Family Pizzocol, situated in Valle di Concei (old power plant) in the Ledro area.

ARCO IS THE HUB OF THE CLIMBING WORLD

Over the years Arco has become famous the world over, earning itself a reputation as an international cradle of sport climbing. The town is justly proud of its Climbing Stadium, a structure with 550 square metres of climbing walls close to the centre in the shadow of Colodri. The stadium is open to the public for an admission fee so anyone can climb in rainy weather or at night on the same walls where the champions pit themselves against one another.

Arco is also home to one of the historical climbing events, Rock Master, the most important competition on the climbing scene, and a meeting point for fans since 1987. Aside from Rock Master there are many other top-level events, including the World Championships held in Arco in 2011. And this year, Arco will once again be the venue for another historic event:  the World Youth Climbing Championships from 22nd to 31st August when hundreds of young climbers competed to win the titles in the boulder, lead, speed and combined specialities.

It is also clear that we are at the heart of world climbing from the number of specialist sports shops selling high end technical gear, stocking all the top brands in the sector.

PURE POETRY OF WATER AND ROCK WITH DEEP WATER SOLO

But that’s not all: for the more experienced, Garda Trentino offers numerous other crags wth a variety of routes trad climbing, an adventure activity which is close to mountaineering in the true sense of the word. The length, difficulties, possibility of rock falls, and lack of inspections or maintenance all mean that these itineraries are only suited to those with mountaineering skills and know-how or who are accompanied by a mountain guide. The level of difficulty is up to the individual climber who undertakes the climb at their own risk.

Another singular experience for the more expert is the Deep Water Solo area for unbolted climbing on the cliffs overlooking the lake. The most interesting Solo Climbing route is called Linea Poetica, a spectacular traverse about 300 meters long, which can be reached by boat from Riva del Garda, with grades between 5c and 6c and highly technical stretches in a truly unique environment. That’s what is so sublime about Garda Trentino, water and rock coming together in a unique experience that is food for body and soul.

OUTDOOR FRIENDLY, FOR LOVERS OF ACTIVE HOLIDAYS

For those who love climbing, a holiday at Garda Trentino can become an unforgettable experience thanks to the Outdoor Friendly facilities which offer a range of dedicated services for those who love active holidays: information on outdoor activities, breakfast buffet with vitamin bar, facilities for washing and drying technical clothing, storage for sports gear with a small workshop, containers for packed lunches on request, internet point, location close to cliffs and/or sports climbing areas, online reservations and preferential terms with guides and specialist shops for guests.

www.gardatrentino.it/outdoorfriendly

https://www.Gardatrentino.it/it/vacanze-climbing-lago-Garda/